The Star Online: Lifestyle: Arts & Fashion
The Star Online: Lifestyle: Arts & Fashion |
| Posted: 22 Jun 2011 03:37 PM PDT Couturiers today constantly look at past designs for inspiration. Our columnist is no exception. CONTRARY to popular belief, not all designers are trend seekers. I, for one, am not one to subscribe to popular culture and whilst I create the clothes, I do not believe in creating the clothes horse. My love for fashion stems from my love of simple, crisp styling. Although that may differ from my theatrical costumer background, I believe that fashion imitates art but you have to find clear distinctions between the real way and runway. As far as fashion style isconcerned, I tend to lean towards "smart" looking ensembles that bring out the outfits' character. More often that not, my style is inspired by men's wear. I adore the "Victor Victoria" fashion which embraces masculinity femininity to a tee. Salute to Coco Chanel whose uncluttered styles, with their boxy lines and shortened skirts, allowed women to leave their corsets behind and freed them for the practical activities made necessary by the war. Her lifestyle was fueled by her ideas of how modern women should look, behave and dress. As her own best muse, her slim boyish figure, cropped hair and active lifestyle became the ideal of how the modern women should be. But we've come a long way since Chanel's uncluttered signature style with boxy suits and shortened skirts. Women today are not ruled by fashion; instead they dominate it. Yet we are subconsciously flooded with images of yesteryear. Designers today are constantly looking at past designs for inspiration and fashion insights. Today, the designer's ability to continuously mine the fashion archives for inspiration testifies to the importance of designers like Gabrielle Chanel, Jeanne Lanvin and Christian Dior and their contributions to women's fashion. Now le's take a look at nautical stripes. It's a personal favourite of mine and one which Chanel helped to popularise in the 1920s. The striped cloth was once a controversial religious garment which was eventually banned by the Pope! At that time, stripes were synonymous with sinners; remember that prisoners wore stripes! But as with politics, a scandal breeds interest and fascination. Such is the case with the stripes; it didn't take long for stripes to be the joie de vivre of the fashion world! I've been asked many times whether stripes tend to make one look heavier. Let's put this myth behind us. Stripes can be used to correct problems concerning the wearer's figure. Just remember these rules: > Vertical stripes can elongate a petite woman's frame. > Horizontal stripes will add curves onto a slim woman's body. > Diagonal stripes can be worn by most but are especially great for plus-sized women. So while we ponder on fashion trends and how they are greatly influenced by brilliant minds of the past, the greatest influence of fashion today is really you. Confidence is your greatest defense against the risks of being a fashion victim. Award-winning fashion designer Melinda Looi tries to marry consumerism and materialism with environmental consciousness, and believes her greatest creations are her children. Follow her on Facebook or write in to star2@the star.com.my. Full Feed Generated by Get Full RSS, sponsored by USA Best Price. |
| Fostering better ties through fashion Posted: 22 Jun 2011 03:37 PM PDT Through fashion, a greater understanding is fostered among people of different faiths. Summer in Kazakhstan can be pretty hot. But it is a season that most Kazakhs look forward to after long harsh winters that can dip to -40°C. The hills and parks are lavishly green, the sky amazingly blue, flowers bloom in a profusion of colours and the city's modern skyscrapers seem to gleam even more with the sun's rays reflected on the already sparkling glass. It is a time when kids on their schoolbreak jump into streams with abandon and grown-ups wear cool clothes in hot colours, drive with their windows wound down or stroll in the parks and boulevards for that breath of fresh air. It was in this cheery mood that the Islamic Fashion Festival (IFF) made its debut in Astana, the capital city of Kazakhstan, on June 8, marking its first appearance in Central Asia. The festival got off to an illuminating start in the predominantly Muslim nation, adding to the summer riot of colours with its ensemble of stylish yet modest fashion wear. Featuring designs inspired by the beauty of nature, rich traditions and cultural past of Central Asia and the Middle East, ancient colours of the Silk Road and the majestic splendour of the Maharaja era, IFF's Discover the Beauty of Modesty showcase turned out to be quite a visual feast for guests who included members of royalty, diplomats, socialites, celebrities and fashionistas. Held at the grand Rixos President Astana, the three-hour event was graced by the Malaysian Prime Minister's wife and IFF patron Datin Seri Rosmah Mansor, who wore a kaftan with matching veil. The show kicked off with Itang Yunasz's "Illumination", which saw Kazakh models gliding down the runway in kaftan-like chiffon and satin silk robes, topped by glitter embossed hoods. One was immediately drawn to the vivid shades – shocking pink, emerald green, deep purple and azure blue. The famed Indonesian designer was not present and was represented by his charming young assistant, Evita Dewi, who helped design some of the gowns for a young, contemporary appeal. According to Evita, 25, the collection had drawn inspiration from Mother Earth and reflected the beauty of the colours of nature, like green trees, blue sea, purple flowers and pink fruits. If the colours had come across as too strong for some in the audience, Itang's collection of "Mukena" or prayer attire that followed lent a softer effect. You can't miss the hint of romanticism as the models, with their exotic features and porcelain complexions, seemed to float on stage, looking ethereal in long gowns made from exquisite white lace or pearl prints. Kazakhstan was represented by three leading designers – Kuralai Nurkadilova, Balnur and Kapiya Kadyrovna Narikbayevna. Being a secular state, Islamic fashion has yet to catch up in the country and the people are still more inclined towards Western fashion. While it is common to see women in sundresses, tank tops, shorts, miniskirts and jeans during summer, you can occasionally spot someone wearing the hijab, albeit a colourful one. Accounting student, Nurila Tursynbaeva, 17, from Kozguy University, for one, has been wearing the hijab for seven months although her three sisters prefer Western attire. "I feel comfortable in these clothes," she shared, adding that Islam requires Muslim women to cover their aurat. According to leading Kazakh designer Kuralai, there have been requests from local women to make Muslim clothes. "Wearing the hijab not only enhances femininity but also religious propriety. It is now regarded as respected apparel everywhere," she explained. IFF founder and chairman Datuk Raja Rezza concurred, saying it was IFF's objective to create a better understanding of the beauty of Islam in a gentle way, through fashion. Rosmah noted that amidst the flurry of eye-catching Western designs and glossy high-street trends, Muslim women have become increasingly eager to wear trendy, colourful yet modest clothing. In her speech, Rosmah, who admitted to a love for shopping, said Muslim women can nowadays choose from a broad selection of designs to create a look that matched their values, traditions and tastes, without compromising any of them. And with mainstream trends becoming increasingly bold and provocative, Islamic fashion has come across like a breath of fresh air. Hence, it was not surprising to see famous brands like Dior, Fendi, Gucci, Hermes, Calvin Klein, Nina Ricci, Roberto Cavalli and John Galliano as well as high-end stores such as Harrods and Saks now competing to design and produce Islamic and Islamic-inspired collections, she observed. With Islamic fashion fast becoming a lucrative industry, Rosmah said the IFF would continue to provide the much-needed platform to help launch Muslim-inspired fashion designers. She noted with pride that since its first show in 2006, the IFF had helped to bring nations and cultures together to exhibit to the world that through fashion, greater understanding and respect can be fostered among people of different faiths and beliefs. Association of Business Women Kazakhstan's president Raushan Sarsembayeva felt the festival was not just a significant event for the fashion world, but also a showcase of ideas and experiences as well as a "way to assert ourselves, to be heard and understood". "In this case, Astana, as a centre of Eurasia, can be a magnificent bridge between two world cultures, East and West." This was obvious in Balnur's East Bazaar collection – marrying modern geometric prints with traditional handsewn embroidery, beads and semi-precious stones. Again, the colours were bright and cheery – turqouise, pink, yellow, indigo and green. For Kapiya, fashion is like "Nurhayat" or the "light of the life", and the IFF turned out to be the perfect showcase for her spring summer 2011 collection. Easily the most extensive among the designs paraded, Kapiya's clothes ranged from modern office wardrobe comprising white chemisette, jacket and skirt, casual long linen dresses, smart blouson tunic coupled with pants and skirts to gala dinner evening dresses. With summer being a favourite time for Kazakh weddings, Kapiya also took the opportunity to feature several exquisite Islamic wedding dresses. Glamour was the word for our very own Malaysian designs by Datuk Tom Abang Saufi and Melinda Looi. Sarawakian Tom presented "Zahir" – a stunning collection of mainly silk outfits in shades of purple, magenta, black and red – the ancient colours of the silk road. "Zahir means blossoming and flourishing. It is for us, in essence, our faith, in the growth and blossoming of our religion in these modern times. Using the 'Beauty In Modesty' theme in the way we dress is the beginning of this blossoming," Tom explained. It was a dramatic finale as Looi presented the "Colours Of The Bejewelled Maharaja". If the earlier presentations were all about colours, Looi showed that white can be just as entrancing. Her couture collection featured European silks with intricate embroderies and lots of sparkle from Swarovski crystals, long gowns that can be worn for red carpets events or gala dinners. There was no Maharaja doing his majestic walk on the runway; imperial splendour came in the form of emcee Henry Golding, who looked dashing in an elaborate bejewelled red coat and green pantaloon, and Dinara Sadjan, his Kazakh co-emcee, in her resplendent red Maharani robe. And it's not all just about fashion. Guests were enthralled by the operatic prowess of Malaysian diva Syafinaz Selamat, who appeared twice during the show. The soprano queen not only sounded great, but looked divine in Tom's and Looi's designs. Although the event stretched to three hours, the afternoon seemed to pass all too quickly, given the fast pace of the show. The Astana showcase was held in conjunction with the World Islamic Economic Forum that took place from June 7 to 9. Full Feed Generated by Get Full RSS, sponsored by USA Best Price. |
| Posted: 22 Jun 2011 03:37 PM PDT PALESTINE, a land fraught by war and strife, has been called the holy land. It is also the birthplace of couturier Hindi Mahdi. In the flesh, this fashion wunderkind – clad in a sharply-tailored Dolce & Gabbana suit – looks like a cross between Prince and George Michael, with dark, smouldering eyes and a darker disposition. "I've loved fashion since I was a child growing up in Palestine. I used to create clothes for my friends, sisters, cousins and nieces, and it delighted them," said Hindi, who was genial and polite, even at 8am in the morning. Hence, it made perfect sense when the aspiring designer moved to the fashion capital of the world, Paris, to pursue his education in ESMOD (l'Ecole Supérieure des Arts et techniques de la Mode) in 1997. Three years later, after graduation, he began creating his own collection, Hindi Couture, designing clothes which transcended creed, colour or culture. "Paris to me was a revelation," he said. Like many of his peers, Hindi isn't really bothered by the burqa ban in France. "I've never felt ostracised even though I was Muslim and I made some friends along the way. There are not that many Muslim designers there, so my friends are really supportive of me." Women are, and has always been, the sole anchor in Hindi's creations. This season's collection, "The Perfume of Jerusalem", for instance, was inspired by the exceptional women Hindi encountered during his last trip back to Palestine. In his eyes, they were strong characters who exuded grace and poise amidst all the mourning and sadness. "I love designing haute couture for women, but now it is my dream to create clothes for plus-size women. They've been eclipsed from fashion life for so long that people tend to forget that they, too, can be elegant and beautiful," he said. As for his favourite designer, Hindi answered "John Galliano" without missing a beat. In a way, he does bear some similarities to Galliano; both are remarkably gifted and flamboyant souls who had no doubt struggled to fit in during their early days. He listened to the comparisons made to the British designer with a head-tilted relish. "His shows are extravagant," enthused Hindi. "He's the best." – Louisa Lim For updates on Hindi Mahdi, log onto hindicouture.com. Full Feed Generated by Get Full RSS, sponsored by USA Best Price. |
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