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The Star Online: Lifestyle: Arts & Fashion

Posted: 12 Oct 2011 11:29 PM PDT

Giuseppe Zanotti's designs are fanciful and flamboyant, and they are always works of art.

THERE is a palpable sense of excitement and anticipation as guests made their way to the Giuseppe Zanotti showroom to view the designer's Autumn/Winter collection during the Milan Fashion Week earlier this year.

It's easy to be captivated as Zanotti's footwear and accessories collection embody an intensity and eclecticism that is so lush and magnetic.

There are gem-encrusted flats, super-high heels made from the most gorgeous materials, booties with metallic stiletto heels, sneakers that are both luxurious and playful.

Then, there is the riot of psychedelic colours – from neon blues to mustard yellows.

It's a very visual collection, one that revives the graphic and piquant world of the late 70s to the early 80s.

Zanotti grew up in San Mauro Pascoli, an Italian town with a long tradition in shoemaking. He began as a design apprentice before making his high fashion debut at Christian Dior. He has worked with designers such as Roberto Cavalli, Missoni and Vera Wang.

In 1994, Zanotti set up his own line; his shoes and assessories are worn by Hollywood A-listers.

The challenge for Zanotti is always to create something new and different every season, and he is always thinking of translating his ideas and inspirations in fresh ways – such as his animal print sandal.

"This shoe was born from a search for a harmonious but original combination of different hides," explains Zanotti in an interview. "I wanted a new way of interpreting the animal theme, but I had trouble finding a single print to embody my ideas."

And so the idea of mixing four different hides was born.

Zanotti's experimentation in combining different materials in his shoes has resulted in some highly stylised designs – there are super high heels made of metal and wrapped in leather, with suede and silk.

There are black python bags fastened by belts and biker buckles for dramatic contrast, and warrior-inspired jewellery with rhinestones.

It is this spirit of curiosity and innovation that drive Zanotti's creative energy.

His Autumn/Winter collection actually began with a quest to uncover "what is missing in the range of feminine shoes which already exist in any closet".

He tackled this challenge "with an adventurous and literary approach".

"It's a collection inspired by personalities such as Raymond Chandler, Léo Malet, Ed McBain, Alfred Hitchcock and Fritz Lang, visualised by designer Raymond Loewy in exasperated hypothetical (set from the 50s to the 90s), on the background of imaginary Studebaker and Buicks (vintage vehicles) with exaggerated colours, skytrains, Coca-Cola bottles and openwork techno structures."

He is also inspired by his travels, urban spaces, art and music.

"I am listening to Nicki Minaj. I like how she is exploding with energy," says Zanotti who is brimming with ideas.

He says he could come up with hundreds more designs. He is constantly tweaking his designs, and re-looking at them.

His innovations are also not just in terms of designs, but also in the technology of making shoes more comfortable and stable. He looks at technical solutions to make his heels stable and light, so that women can "go from shopping in them, send their children to school or go clubbing with friends in them."

"Every design has a story. There are different designs within the collection and it is easy for women to pick from my collection. Designers today are not like in the 80s and 90s when they dictate what women want.

"The women today have strong personalities, and they decide for themselves what they want," says the designer whose designs are favoured by Hollywood's elite stars such as Lady Gaga, Beyonce and Rihanna.

Zanotti says a good pair of shoes is not only about the aesthetics, but also how it makes the wearer feels.

"I use silk as lining for my shoes. Silk is the most beautiful material in the land, and when a woman wears the shoes she can feel the luxurious texture of the silk on her feet."

The latest addition to Zanotti's repertoire is his take on sneakers. They represent "extreme freedom of expression, new role, new statements and creative chaos".

Zanotti has, of course, stamped his signature eclectic interpretation to sneakers, turning them from casual streetwear to high end art objects.

He uses materials like leather and suede on his sneakers, and they are also the first of his unisex line.

● Giuseppe Zanotti's designs are available at his boutique in Pavillion Kuala Lumpur. Prices range from RM2,390 to RM8,690.

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Flavourful fashion with an Indian theme

Posted: 12 Oct 2011 11:28 PM PDT

For Deepavali, consider contemporary outfits that evoke the richness of India.

SAREES, sequins and shawls are the first things that come to mind when one thinks of India's influence on the world of fashion.

What many people don't realise is that inspiration from India has been sprinkling the visions of fashion mavens for centuries, and we're not just talking about traditional or ethnic attire.

From paisley designs and ornate beadwork to nehru collars and peasant skirts to khadi (handspun cotton) and linen, the South Asian touch is very visible in modern fashion worldwide. And with Deepavali just two weeks away, now's the perfect time to celebrate this trend.

Locally, however, those who crave for a bit of the Bharat in their wardrobe are often left with only a few predictable choices. One can, of course, pick up a kurti (tunic-like tops with Indian motifs) or two from the many shops and stalls around, or even go for a salwar kameez (Punjabi suit) or saree. But these are generally perceived more as "traditional wear". What about those of us who want modern or contemporary outfits that nevertheless still evoke the rich fashion possibilities of India?

This was exactly the dilemma that inspired friends Sashikala Menon and Jegadeeswari Vijayakumar to start up their own online clothing boutique, Akhil (akhil.my).

"We got talking about how difficult it was to find modern clothes with that Indian touch here. You see a lot of kurtis, but they often look very traditional. We really wanted something more relevant," explains Sashikala.

Starting their business in August 2010 with ready-made pieces imported from India, the duo launched clothes of their own design earlier this year, inspired by what they themselves would wear.

"We browse the Internet and various magazines for ideas, and we also look at Western designs and see how we can add some Indian elements. But most importantly, we think about what we and the women around us would want to wear," says Sashikala. "Our main aim is to be comfortable yet contemporary, and to show that you can incorporate India into your outfit without yelling out 'I'm Indian!'"

Having come up with the designs, Sashikala and Jegadeeswari then source for fabrics from India and work with a tailor there to get the pieces made.

Featuring dresses and tops in comfortable cotton, Akhil's designs blend South Asian prints with elements like batik and florals to create a modern look. Taking inspiration from the kurti, their flirty tunic dress can be worn as it is or paired with tights. In other designs, modern silhouettes are enhanced by subtle gold embellishments. Bold colours like maroon, orange and teal further add adventure to casual pieces.

If couture is your cup of chai, look no further than local fashion designer Syomir Izwa. His extensive use of pleating and draping in his creations hark back to elegant Indian queens swathed in breathtaking sarees – little wonder that he even dubbed one of his lines the "Maharani collection".

Syomir, who has been designing for eight years, debuted in the fashion industry in 2009, and has since gathered an extensive list of well-known clients, particularly for wedding couture.

The designer credits his half-Indian family background for inspiring his fascination with the subcontinent, but stresses that he wants to create Indian-inspired looks that are more modern and less ethnically-specific.

"The Indian inspiration can be done in many ways, it doesn't have to just be about using saree fabric or beading," Syomir says. "I try to explore pleating and draping. The way the saree is draped, its movements, can be found in my dresses and even my baju kurung. I even use pleating in harem pants or dress pants to add detail."

He also finds creative impetus in legends and stories from India; a gorgeously-draped hot orange-and-gold modern kurung, for example, is inspired by the story of Prince Siddharta. Other designs may not boast an immediate Indian connection, but hint at subtle links, such as a sultry navy blue evening gown which takes its silhouette and draping from a saree.

Local online retailer Indifashion (indifash ion.my), on the other hand, offers outfits that boast a distinctly Indian look but with a modern flair. Most attractive are their range of versatile tunic dresses, which can also be worn with tights or jeans. Imported from India, their Indo Western range features uniquely Indian fabrics and embellishments on tops and dresses that eschew the usual kurti silhouette for more contemporary styles like baby-doll or A-line cuts.

Typically Indian detailing like metallic threads, beadwork, embroidery and busy prints, are used to jazz up the design further, such as a fawn-coloured dress in crushed art silk, embellished with green and gold fabric and metallic embroidery. In other designs, summery floral dresses are giving an Indian touch with the addition of subtle metallic fabric or embroidery.

For Leslie Variyan, designer of homegrown label Variante, the Indian influence in his creations is not a conscious effort, but rather, something that flows naturally.

"I'm Indian and I think the saree is one sexy outfit! I also want to bring a little culture into the modern world. So while my designs are not meant to look like sarees, they are often inspired by them in some way," shares Leslie, who established Variante in 2005 after being in the local fashion industry for 14 years.

Leslie's designs run the gamut from chic tops and pants to casual dresses to flowing evening gowns. Some boldly declare their Indian roots, like a dark green animal-print, one-shouldered gown that is obviously saree-inspired, while others whisper of ethnic touches, such as a chic teal top with orange accents and unstructured white pants.

Known for his flowy, ethereal design aesthetic, he says his inspirations from India are most apparent in his use of colour.

"My choice of colours is often bold and daring, I don't like to stop halfway," says Leslie, whose boutique is located in Pavilion Kuala Lumpur. "I love that about India, only they are daring enough to combine turquoise and fuchsia or orange and green!"

His use of heavy beadwork, too, is reminiscent of the stone- and bead-encrusted finery of India.

"Look at Indian jewellery. It's never just one pearl, it's always a few things at once. Beads and jewels are often very big, and you can never have too much. I love bringing that glamour into my creations," explains Leslie.

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Kredit: www.thestar.com.my

Khamis, 13 Oktober 2011