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Posted: 22 Jun 2011 03:36 PM PDT

Singapore gets a dose of Islamic fashion with a modern spin.

IT is odd how the Islamic Fashion Festival (IFF) has the power to incite some of the most intense reactions from people. Admittedly, I too, have not been spared from the nose-scrunching, eyebrow-raising cynicism that hijacks the minds of most fashionistas when they hear these three words uttered for the first time.

What does fashion have to do with religion? And why am I, a non-Muslim who can't differentiate a hijab from a kaftan, assigned for the job?

According to the founder and chairman Datuk Raja Rezza Shah, however, staging the IFF in a non-Muslim country in front of a predominantly non-Muslim crowd, was not about highlighting the superiority of Islam or converting anyone, it's "to create a better understanding of the religion through fashion."

"The IFF longs to correct the misconception people have about Islam and terrorism since 9/11," he said during a press conference in Singapore. "People are tired of hearing lectures about how the religion is nothing like what they think it is. We want them to see and experience the vibrancy of the religion for themselves."

Which brings us to their very first show in Singapore, which was held on June 2. Our gregarious neighbour isn't the only non-religious city to welcome the IFF. Five years after its debut in Kuala Lumpur, the IFF has made inroads to New York City and Monte Carlo, where skimpy styles and barely-there clothes are the order of the day. But even more surprising was the post-show feedback.

"Prince Albert of Monaco was so impressed that he wants us to return to Monte Carlo, while Robert De Niro said he always thought that Muslims have to be clad in a black ninja outfit until he saw the show in New York," said Raja Rezza.

Incidentally, some of the biggest critics of the IFF have been Muslims themselves. Raja Rezza, who was still reeling from the aftermath of last year's show, insisted that he wasn't losing any sleep over the onslaught of disapproval on the Internet.

"Some people freaked out because they thought the clothes were too sexy," he said. "However, we have different designers from different parts of the world who have interpreted Islamic fashion according to their culture. Who are we to say that these interpretations are wrong?"

Designed to dazzle

One of the IFF's most prolific yet oft-criticised designers is Hindi Mahdi. Born in Palestine and based in Paris, Hindi is the Middle East's version of John Galliano, and not just because he has a way of making the conventional Islamic garb accessible, even appealing, to the masses.

"I've put a modern spin on the clothes," remarked Hindi, who presented his designs in the Lion City for the very first time. (For more on Hindi, see accompanying story.)

But then again, the public often fail to understand that the fashion industry has always thrived on pushing the envelope. At the same time, ultra-conservative fashion has found its way to pages of iconic magazines such as Vogue and across the world's runways in recent years.

However, it wasn't until a few months ago – when pictures of Nigella Lawson in a black burkini (a head-to-toe swimsuit) surfaced online – that the world was sent into a tailspin.

In his column for Fox News, Alex Alvarez said, "A website posed a doozy of a question to its readers today: 'Are burqa-inspired fashions glorifying female oppression or encouraging women to dress more conservatively?' Are those the only two choices we get?"

Lawson's choice of outfit was motivated by a desire to shield her creamy complexion from the Australian sun, rather than a sudden conversion to Islam or her conservative dress sense. It was reported that she had purchased the burkini from an Islamic swimwear company, Modestly Active, and that the line chosen by her offers a sun protection factor of 50+. Apparently, she wasn't the first non-Muslim celebrity to purchase an all-in-one outfit from the company, nor would she be the last.

In an interview with the UK Telegraph, Modestly Active's marketing director Ismail Sacranie said that they hadn't expected their clothes to appeal to non-Muslims. Nonetheless, these women now make up 15% of their client base.

"The Islamic fashion industry is worth US$96bil (RM291bil) a year globally and, contrary to popular belief, it's not just Muslim women who contribute to this figure," said Raja Rezza, who sees Islamic fashion as a "lifestyle" rather than a "religious" choice.

As such, many of those on the guest list of IFF's gala event were non-Muslims. They included the likes of plastic surgeons, ambassadors, ministers, socialites and even Douglas Benjamin, CEO of retail giant FJ Benjamin.

"Frankly, I don't have any expectations," said Pamela Ramos, the wife to former ambassador of Mexico, over dinner. "It's my first time at an Islamic fashion show and I'm here because my husband was invited. I've never been madly impressed with Muslim fashion before and I'm curious to see how it would pan out."

The mood was decidedly more optimistic backstage. Malaysian designer Nuraini Ariffin – who designs for her label Aktif Bestari – said most of her customers were, in fact, non-Muslims.

"They buy our clothes for all sorts of reasons," said Nuraini, after the curtain went up. "Some of them want to protect their skin from the sun, while others feel self-conscious about their bodies."

The spandex-and-lycra burkinis that came cruising down the runway during her IFF Singapore show were not just black, but also violet, blue and even shocking pink. The styles were equally varied, from inbuilt visor caps to tunic-like cuts.

Going undercover

"I don't see why non-Muslims shouldn't wear such designs," said Malaysian designer Melinda Looi. "I myself have fallen in love with the abaya, a robe-like dress, after visiting the Middle East."

This had prompted Looi to start designing her own abayas under the Melinda Looi Islamic collection.

"The Chinese love them," she said. "One of my Chinese clients has asked me to custom design different abayas for her. She said she likes to wear abayas to formal events, not just because people complimented her for it, but also because she could finally eat!"

There were 13 designers in all, but the night ultimately belonged to Looi, Malaysian designer Datuk Tom Abang Saufi, and the duo from Singaporean label Mantra, who sent more than several dozen dresses in a riot of colours down the runway.

The audience held their breaths as fluffs of marabou, ripples of velvet and satin, flashes of glitter and clouds of tulle made their grand entrance, together with laced veils, bell-shaped sleeves, angular shoulders, swirling turbans and poufy skirts.

Taking religious beliefs, clothing or accoutrement out of context, some of these outfits were downright dazzling. It was a show fit for Scheherazade, with all the trappings of elegance and style, and none of the sexual overtones that dominate today's fashion shows.

There were also a few instances when my heart stopped beating at the sight of all that sumptuous fabric, all the sparkling jewels and all that jazz.

But it wasn't all just frou frou-ness and frills. The irreverent Hindi once again shocked and charmed many with his military-print hijabs and rebellious ebony pantsuit. Perhaps it was his way of giving the finger to all fashion prudes and naysayers, but boy, he sure did it with a whole lot of panache.

"I don't believe in fashion trends," Hindi had mentioned earlier. "As the French say, la mode ne se demode pas, which means fashion doesn't vanish, it comes back after a while. All kinds of creation can be trendy if you wear it the right way."

As a round of applause rang through the ballroom, my neighbour expressed her trepidation. Sure, these clothes may look amazing on tall, willowy frames, but what about regular women?

Looi, whose clients are mainly petite females, claimed that kaftans and biased cuts look best on such bodies.

Meanwhile, Hindi said that curvy women should go for shorter blouses and longer skirts.

Singaporean businesswoman Eva Lee, however, brushed aside all talk of style technicalities. The show had left her more excited than anxious, and she was not afraid to admit it.

"That was certainly eye-opening," she said, grinning. "I'm so amazed at all the beautiful clothes that I just saw. I used to think that Islamic fashion was all about baju kurung and kebayas. I guess I was wrong."

Lee said that she would purchase such clothes in a heartbeat. "These days, it's difficult to find a gown that's not revealing. These clothes, on the other hand, are perfect for someone my age," she quipped.

Ramos was also smitten, and believes that some of these labels might do very well in Singapore.

"It was all quite lovely," she said. "The only problem is that it's very hot in Singapore, and I'll probably have a panic attack in long sleeves. But I'd definitely wear some of these clothes abroad."

With all the positive comments, one could only wonder why Raja Rezza didn't think of taking the IFF to Singapore earlier.

"We only go when we're invited," he answered. "Religion can be a very sensitive issue, and the last thing we want to do is ambush others."

Follow Louisa Lim at twitter.com/lolibites.

Understanding Hindi

Posted: 22 Jun 2011 03:37 PM PDT

PALESTINE, a land fraught by war and strife, has been called the holy land. It is also the birthplace of couturier Hindi Mahdi.

In the flesh, this fashion wunderkind – clad in a sharply-tailored Dolce & Gabbana suit – looks like a cross between Prince and George Michael, with dark, smouldering eyes and a darker disposition.

"I've loved fashion since I was a child growing up in Palestine. I used to create clothes for my friends, sisters, cousins and nieces, and it delighted them," said Hindi, who was genial and polite, even at 8am in the morning.

Hence, it made perfect sense when the aspiring designer moved to the fashion capital of the world, Paris, to pursue his education in ESMOD (l'Ecole Supérieure des Arts et techniques de la Mode) in 1997. Three years later, after graduation, he began creating his own collection, Hindi Couture, designing clothes which transcended creed, colour or culture.

"Paris to me was a revelation," he said. Like many of his peers, Hindi isn't really bothered by the burqa ban in France.

"I've never felt ostracised even though I was Muslim and I made some friends along the way. There are not that many Muslim designers there, so my friends are really supportive of me."

Women are, and has always been, the sole anchor in Hindi's creations. This season's collection, "The Perfume of Jerusalem", for instance, was inspired by the exceptional women Hindi encountered during his last trip back to Palestine. In his eyes, they were strong characters who exuded grace and poise amidst all the mourning and sadness.

"I love designing haute couture for women, but now it is my dream to create clothes for plus-size women. They've been eclipsed from fashion life for so long that people tend to forget that they, too, can be elegant and beautiful," he said.

As for his favourite designer, Hindi answered "John Galliano" without missing a beat. In a way, he does bear some similarities to Galliano; both are remarkably gifted and flamboyant souls who had no doubt struggled to fit in during their early days. He listened to the comparisons made to the British designer with a head-tilted relish.

"His shows are extravagant," enthused Hindi. "He's the best." – Louisa Lim

For updates on Hindi Mahdi, log onto hindicouture.com.

Fostering better ties through fashion

Posted: 22 Jun 2011 03:37 PM PDT

Through fashion, a greater understanding is fostered among people of different faiths.

Summer in Kazakhstan can be pretty hot.

But it is a season that most Kazakhs look forward to after long harsh winters that can dip to -40°C.

The hills and parks are lavishly green, the sky amazingly blue, flowers bloom in a profusion of colours and the city's modern skyscrapers seem to gleam even more with the sun's rays reflected on the already sparkling glass.

It is a time when kids on their schoolbreak jump into streams with abandon and grown-ups wear cool clothes in hot colours, drive with their windows wound down or stroll in the parks and boulevards for that breath of fresh air.

It was in this cheery mood that the Islamic Fashion Festival (IFF) made its debut in Astana, the capital city of Kazakhstan, on June 8, marking its first appearance in Central Asia. The festival got off to an illuminating start in the predominantly Muslim nation, adding to the summer riot of colours with its ensemble of stylish yet modest fashion wear.

Featuring designs inspired by the beauty of nature, rich traditions and cultural past of Central Asia and the Middle East, ancient colours of the Silk Road and the majestic splendour of the Maharaja era, IFF's Discover the Beauty of Modesty showcase turned out to be quite a visual feast for guests who included members of royalty, diplomats, socialites, celebrities and fashionistas.

Held at the grand Rixos President Astana, the three-hour event was graced by the Malaysian Prime Minister's wife and IFF patron Datin Seri Rosmah Mansor, who wore a kaftan with matching veil.

The show kicked off with Itang Yunasz's "Illumination", which saw Kazakh models gliding down the runway in kaftan-like chiffon and satin silk robes, topped by glitter embossed hoods. One was immediately drawn to the vivid shades – shocking pink, emerald green, deep purple and azure blue.

The famed Indonesian designer was not present and was represented by his charming young assistant, Evita Dewi, who helped design some of the gowns for a young, contemporary appeal. According to Evita, 25, the collection had drawn inspiration from Mother Earth and reflected the beauty of the colours of nature, like green trees, blue sea, purple flowers and pink fruits.

If the colours had come across as too strong for some in the audience, Itang's collection of "Mukena" or prayer attire that followed lent a softer effect. You can't miss the hint of romanticism as the models, with their exotic features and porcelain complexions, seemed to float on stage, looking ethereal in long gowns made from exquisite white lace or pearl prints. Kazakhstan was represented by three leading designers – Kuralai Nurkadilova, Balnur and Kapiya Kadyrovna Narikbayevna.

Being a secular state, Islamic fashion has yet to catch up in the country and the people are still more inclined towards Western fashion. While it is common to see women in sundresses, tank tops, shorts, miniskirts and jeans during summer, you can occasionally spot someone wearing the hijab, albeit a colourful one.

Accounting student, Nurila Tursynbaeva, 17, from Kozguy University, for one, has been wearing the hijab for seven months although her three sisters prefer Western attire.

"I feel comfortable in these clothes," she shared, adding that Islam requires Muslim women to cover their aurat.

According to leading Kazakh designer Kuralai, there have been requests from local women to make Muslim clothes.

"Wearing the hijab not only enhances femininity but also religious propriety. It is now regarded as respected apparel everywhere," she explained.

IFF founder and chairman Datuk Raja Rezza concurred, saying it was IFF's objective to create a better understanding of the beauty of Islam in a gentle way, through fashion.

Rosmah noted that amidst the flurry of eye-catching Western designs and glossy high-street trends, Muslim women have become increasingly eager to wear trendy, colourful yet modest clothing.

In her speech, Rosmah, who admitted to a love for shopping, said Muslim women can nowadays choose from a broad selection of designs to create a look that matched their values, traditions and tastes, without compromising any of them. And with mainstream trends becoming increasingly bold and provocative, Islamic fashion has come across like a breath of fresh air.

Hence, it was not surprising to see famous brands like Dior, Fendi, Gucci, Hermes, Calvin Klein, Nina Ricci, Roberto Cavalli and John Galliano as well as high-end stores such as Harrods and Saks now competing to design and produce Islamic and Islamic-inspired collections, she observed.

With Islamic fashion fast becoming a lucrative industry, Rosmah said the IFF would continue to provide the much-needed platform to help launch Muslim-inspired fashion designers.

She noted with pride that since its first show in 2006, the IFF had helped to bring nations and cultures together to exhibit to the world that through fashion, greater understanding and respect can be fostered among people of different faiths and beliefs.

Association of Business Women Kazakhstan's president Raushan Sarsembayeva felt the festival was not just a significant event for the fashion world, but also a showcase of ideas and experiences as well as a "way to assert ourselves, to be heard and understood".

"In this case, Astana, as a centre of Eurasia, can be a magnificent bridge between two world cultures, East and West."

This was obvious in Balnur's East Bazaar collection – marrying modern geometric prints with traditional handsewn embroidery, beads and semi-precious stones. Again, the colours were bright and cheery – turqouise, pink, yellow, indigo and green.

For Kapiya, fashion is like "Nurhayat" or the "light of the life", and the IFF turned out to be the perfect showcase for her spring summer 2011 collection. Easily the most extensive among the designs paraded, Kapiya's clothes ranged from modern office wardrobe comprising white chemisette, jacket and skirt, casual long linen dresses, smart blouson tunic coupled with pants and skirts to gala dinner evening dresses.

With summer being a favourite time for Kazakh weddings, Kapiya also took the opportunity to feature several exquisite Islamic wedding dresses.

Glamour was the word for our very own Malaysian designs by Datuk Tom Abang Saufi and Melinda Looi. Sarawakian Tom presented "Zahir" – a stunning collection of mainly silk outfits in shades of purple, magenta, black and red – the ancient colours of the silk road.

"Zahir means blossoming and flourishing. It is for us, in essence, our faith, in the growth and blossoming of our religion in these modern times. Using the 'Beauty In Modesty' theme in the way we dress is the beginning of this blossoming," Tom explained.

It was a dramatic finale as Looi presented the "Colours Of The Bejewelled Maharaja".

If the earlier presentations were all about colours, Looi showed that white can be just as entrancing. Her couture collection featured European silks with intricate embroderies and lots of sparkle from Swarovski crystals, long gowns that can be worn for red carpets events or gala dinners.

There was no Maharaja doing his majestic walk on the runway; imperial splendour came in the form of emcee Henry Golding, who looked dashing in an elaborate bejewelled red coat and green pantaloon, and Dinara Sadjan, his Kazakh co-emcee, in her resplendent red Maharani robe.

And it's not all just about fashion. Guests were enthralled by the operatic prowess of Malaysian diva Syafinaz Selamat, who appeared twice during the show. The soprano queen not only sounded great, but looked divine in Tom's and Looi's designs.

Although the event stretched to three hours, the afternoon seemed to pass all too quickly, given the fast pace of the show.

The Astana showcase was held in conjunction with the World Islamic Economic Forum that took place from June 7 to 9.

Kredit: www.thestar.com.my

Jumaat, 7 Oktober 2011

The Star Online: Lifestyle: Arts & Fashion

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Jumaat, 7 Oktober 2011

The Star Online: Lifestyle: Arts & Fashion

The Star Online: Lifestyle: Arts &amp; Fashion

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The Star Online: Lifestyle: Arts & Fashion