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The Star Online: Lifestyle: Arts & Fashion


H&M still a 'family business' at heart

Posted: 20 Sep 2012 08:17 AM PDT

IT is bewildering how a company can be perceived as a "family business" when it has a staff strength of 94,000 and more than 2,600 stores strewn over four continents. But for 65 years, H&M has remained steadfast to its roots of "quality fashion at best prices", and this, says Karl-Johan Persson, is the product of a "family" working in unison with a clear direction.

H&M started off as a women's clothing store in 1947 in Vasteras, Sweden. Hennes is the Swedish word for "hers". In 1968, Persson bought Mauritz Widforss, a hunting store which stocked men's clothing, and the name was changed to Hennes and Mauritz. Guided by the strong values that run through the veins of the company and steered by Persson, the grandson of founder Erling Persson, the brand has enjoyed increased sales last year despite the current challenging fashion retail market and profitability buoyant at an impressive 18.5%.

H&M has market presence in 44 markets, with Germany taking the lion share. It will be opening in Malaysia and Thailand this month, and next year, the brand is looking at Indonesia and Estonia.

Coming from the right stock helps, but Persson also has a background in business and economics, and ran his own successful events management company before joining H&M, proving his credentials as the right man to sit at the helm.

His first introduction into the fashion business was the label COS, which he established in 2005. Perrson joined H&M in an operational role that same year, and was appointed head of expansion and business development in 2007, before becoming CEO in 2009 to succeed Rolf Eriksen.

The amiable 37-year-old CEO was accommodating enough to make time for a short 10-minute morning interview, despite having to fly out to Bangladesh right after lunch. If I was expectating a strapping tall, blue-eyed blond Nordic, it could have been a little disappointing as Persson has brown hair and sports a darker tan, but he makes good on the good-looking Swede promise. We sit down for a quick tete-a-tete on H&M's upcoming Malaysian foray.

How do you view H&M's expansion into Asia and making its presence felt in Kuala Lumpur?

We looked at wider Asia and the economy is growing rapidly. We decided to go into China, Japan, South Korea, and other countries. Malaysia was the natural next step, judging by the size of its economy, demographics and fashion interest.

Why did it take a year after Singapore before H&M launched in Malaysia?

We have a good expansion rate, opening almost 300 stores last year, so there's really a lot going on. Our business model is working everywhere – maybe from the outside it seemed logical to open right after Singapore, but it involves a lot of work, from the planning side, buying, the IT systems, finance, and many other aspects. There's a lot of homework to be done and the location is also very important. We've known about Malaysia for some time, but we needed to prepare and in the best possible way.

How do you see the fashion direction in Malaysia?

We will make local adaptions, and after we set up store, we'll see how it goes, the interest and demand.

What are your thoughts for opening night?

We are very excited about the opening. A little nervous as it's the first store, but we believe we have something in terms of the low prices at our level of fashion. Prices will be very competitive, I assure you.

Despite the size of the company, why do you say H&M is a family business?

It's still a family business in the sense that we still have a small company feel. Or so I've heard from people who stay a long time in H&M. It's a close knit family, with 94,000 people contributing to its success; it's not about one person at the top.

Would you describe yourself as hands-on?

Yes. We have open doors, close communications. It's also a lot about delegation, alloting responsibilities and believing in the people.

Was it a given that you would one day head H&M?

I knew from an early age that I would be in H&M, but maybe not this position. When I was very young, I wanted to be a tennis player!

What is your personal style?

I wear a lot of H&M, of course, but also a lot of other labels. I like many up-and-coming Swedish designers. My own style isn't flamboyant, I'm more conservative.

What's the near future like for H&M?

You will see more expansion in the next few years. We are looking at many new markets.

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International fashion retailer at your doorstep

International fashion retailer H&M opens first M'sian outlet in KL

Posted: 20 Sep 2012 08:17 AM PDT

AFTER the long wait, international fashion retailer Hennes & Mauritz AB, better known as H&M, will be opening its first store at Lot 10, in Bukit Bintang, Kuala Lumpur this Saturday.

The second H&M store will be opening next in Setia City Mall in Shah Alam, Selangor.

Spanning 3,340.5 sqm and three floors of prime retail space, Malaysia's first H&M full concept store will offer a wide assortment of the latest fashion trends, promising quality and stylish apparel at attractive prices.

"We are excited to finally open in Malaysia and expanding within the South-East Asian market. H&M has always been about making fashion and quality at the best price, and we look forward to bringing something new and exciting to Kuala Lumpur," said Lex Keijser, country manager for H&M China, Singapore and Malaysia, in a press statement.

The Autumn/Winter 2012 collection marks the brand's debut where minimalism meets maximalism, and sleek sculptural silhouettes are matched with bold shapes and pretty embellishment.

Separates are key: A cocoon coat with kimono sleeves in tweed; a double-breasted black tailored coat with a 90s sporty-feel; tailored black slacks with zippered ankle; leggings in vivid shades; they all come together to form different looks for different personalities.

Texture is obvious from the boucle sweatshirts, oversized cable knit cardigans to sweaters with plumes of hair. Fabrics come in wool jersey, cotton poplin, velvet silk, mohair, leather and herringbone tweed.

Accessories to go with the collection include elegant costume jewellery bracelets, pearl necklaces and drop earrings, as well as jewelled shoulder pieces to dress up minimal outfits.

The palette is mostly black and futuristic grey with autumnal browns, and accented by colours from the prints and patterns as well as pops of metallic.

The suit is the most versatile piece in a man's wardrobe this season, as layering, texture and colour bring tailoring traditions right into the 21st century. It's a sharp 60s silhouette that dominates the range, with slim lapels and slightly cropped trousers that go well with classic shades of black and grey, or the season's colours of wine or bottle green.

Layering is achieved with thin-knit turtleneck under tailored shirts together with mustard-hued trousers. Suede pants spell attitude and tailored-coats emphasise the sleek body form. Tweed plays up texture, as does corduroy and cable-knits, with the surprise of Lurex finishes. For accessories, look out for leather brown brogue boots and leather gloves, coloured socks, tweed bow ties and braces.

Global singer-songwriter Lana Del Rey is the face and voice of H&M this fall. The print campaign is shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, and there's a full-length film of Lana singing a cover of Blue Velvet, (catch this on hm.com) shot by director Johan Renck. She wears a pink angora blend sweater with printed leggings, a tweed biker jacket and a tweed figure-hugging faux leather trimmed dress. Lana will also star in a second print campaign later in the season, featuring the best of winter fashion.

Actor Joel Kinnaman, the lead in the remake of RoboCop, models H&M's men's fashion. In the campaign, Joel wears a series of key pieces including a green varsity jacket layered over a navy crewneck and denim shirt. The collection also features cardigans, corduroy pants, an updated version of the classic slim overcoat in navy, and a grey single-breasted suit. The commercial will be available for viewing on hm.com beginning Oct 5.

Underwear sells at H&M, especially if it sports the David Beckham name. His new campaign, focusing on the form and fit of the underwear classics that make up his bodywear range, had powerful new images shot in Los Angeles by photographer Alasdair McLellan. Beckham was photographed against a black background to show him and the bodywear in stark relief.

David Beckham Bodywear is an exclusive, long-term collaboration with H&M, which has become an instant global success following its launch in February 2012.

The collection features a set of core products designed by Beckham and his team, with special attention paid to the comfort and fit of each garment, from briefs and trunks to undershirts, T-shirts, Henleys and long johns. The David Beckham Bodywear collection is available at around 1,800 H&M stores in 44 countries worldwide, as well as online.

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Still a 'family business' at heart

High street label H&M serves up inspiring fashion at affordable prices

Posted: 20 Sep 2012 08:15 AM PDT

High street label H&M serves up inspiring fashion at cost-conscious prices with the audacity of designer fare.

SCANDIVANIAN design is globally well-known for its modern, clean and minimalist approach. Just in case you're not on the same page here, I'm talking about fashion and not interior design.

Swedish dressing style may carry the same effortless and minimal theme, but it isn't exactly up there on the fashion map, and it's surely not in the same league as the great fashion capitals of Paris, London, Milan and New York.

Yet, it is home to the world's second largest clothing retailer, Hennes & Mauritz AB, better known as H&M. It's probably also one of the few high street brands that has people clamouring for its special collections whenever it launches its much-anticipated guest designer collaborations, which in the past, have included celebrated names such as Karl Lagerfeld, Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Stella McCartney, Roberto Cavalli, Comme des Garçons and Marni.

My first encounter with H&M years ago was not so auspicious; after all, what are the chances of someone in Malaysia getting first dibs at such coveted designer togs?

In fact, I had at first mistakenly heard the name "M&M", and wondered to myself why on earth a chocolate candy brand would want to get involved in the fashion business.

I can't recall which store or what part of the world that marked my induction into H&M, but being a sucker for great bargains, it was love at first buy.

It is a delicious feeling indeed, to be able to flaunt an outfit that's classy enough to be mistaken for a designer creation, but costs only a fraction of the price.

And that's the best part about H&M – its apparel carries ridiculous cost-conscious price tags, but the fashion it offers comes with the audacity of a designer boutique.

The brand subscribes to an all-consuming mantra: Fashion and quality at the best price. At a glance, it might be described as simplistic, but it's a feat galvanising a company of 94,000 staff to commit to such a single-minded goal.

To understand this better, the brand brought media members from Malaysia and Thailand to experience the hot seat of Swedish fashion for ourselves.

Led by a single mantra

At H&M's headquarters in Stockholm, the building is everything you would expect Scandinavian design to be. Boasting neat lines, white walls that make the canvas for brightly-coloured contemporary furniture and a logical assortment of space, it's very much a comfort zone that you want to work in.

Having a private canteen that serves up an amazing menu (which was our lunch) also helps to keep employees happy. Just downstairs, there's a H&M store. In fact, every corner you turn there's one; we are, after all, in Sweden.

In quick succession, we're introduced to Kristina Stenvinkel, head of press and communication; Helena Helmersson, head of CSR projects; Petra Lundgren (from H&M design department, the White Room), responsible for colour creations; and Ann-Sofie Johansson, head of design, who together make the case for H&M.

Given how the brand speaks for in-trend fashion, and proudly hold its own against the movers and shakers of the industry, you would expect a highly energised young team. The energy and enthusiasm are certainly heartfelt, but H&M is living proof that youth isn't the key to dynamic fashion.

In fact, Johansson, who started as a design assistant and now heads a team of almost 200 designers, has been with the company for 25 years and is still very much on the pulse of fast fashion.

"Fashion shouldn't be taken too seriously. It's about dressing personally. Last time, it may have been dictated by Paris but not anymore. Now, it's more fun and liberating; you can play around more (with designs), and mix and match," she exclaims.

You only need a quick look around the conference room and at the people working in the office to know that she speaks the truth as everyone brings their own style to the table. Johansson herself is dressed in pants and an embellished blouse (from H&M, I noticed on the racks later) and comfortable shoes.

She confesses to being somewhat a fashion victim as she changes with the season, yet firmly stands by her own personal expression. Likewise, customers are inspired to create their own style.

Later, I compliment Lundgren on her lovely feminine maroon-layered dress, and it's from H&M as well. And here's the infuriating thing about H&M (though it's really a very smart strategy). Unlike some other brands which insist on having the same look everywhere for brand image, H&M cleverly shifts its "red area" (fashion hot spot) every few weeks, and every store is unique as it showcases different items at the window display.

Just when you think you've got the current collection nailed, you spot something different and you're enticed to step in again.

"The key to our success is the business idea: Fashion and quality at the best price. Regardless whether you're a designer, buyer or whichever department you're in, it's always kept in mind. We're very customer-focused as they are our bosses – we constantly listen to what they want and their needs," says Johansson.

When asked, she says H&M has no specific age target, it's more of "a mental age", and as long as you're interested in fashion, you fit the bill. Some customers were teenagers when they started with H&M, and they're still with the brand decades later.

Inspirations come in many ways – Johan-sson and her team pick up notes from travels, fashion classics proferred by Paris, Milan, New York, London and Tokyo, textile fairs, street fashion and exhibitions.

"We try to look out for trendsetters, what's popping, vintage looks, what's happening at music festivals. The Internet is getting more important as are catwalk shows, but these are more of a confirmation of what we know is out there," she says.

"Celebrity inspiration is also important, as well as what bloggers are saying and old-fashioned sources such as music, magazines, movies and costume dramas (such as Mad Men)."

H&M is consistently working on three seasons at any given time, a year ahead. As the brand decides on key colours and trends, fabrics and other aspects, it develops other minor stuff to add along the way if needed, so it's an ongoing process.

Essentially, the fashion components at H&M consist of basics, contemporary wear and latest trends. These are made up of nine divisions which cover, among others, ladies, men, children, ladies concept (maternity) and bodywear.

Other independents brands within the group are COS (modern urban chic), Monki (funky, with lots of personal creativity and imaginative expression), Cheap Monday (from street fashion and subcultures influences) and Weekday (independent design collaborations, and own brands such as MTWTFSS and Weekday Vintage).

Catalogue and online shopping in specific countries are available for H&M Home, which offers a store in Sweden. H&M, COS and Monki are also available online.

"Fashion moves all the time and we have to keep up with that change, be on our toes, as everything has an impact on fashion," says Johansson.

Special guest designer collections

That's not to say H&M only designs for the broad masses, which of course, is a very profitable venture, but it also ups the hype each year with guest designer collections. Who can refuse red carpet-worthy designer wear at value-for-money prices?

"It's a win-win situation. It creates a buzz for H&M, excites customers with our work, and makes the brand more interesting," explains Johansson.

Creative adviser Margaretta van den Bosch remembers that the designer collaboration was first mooted by the marketing department in 2004. Tired of the same thing every year, someone broached the idea.

"We approached Karl Lagerfled and the collection was a sell-out success; at first we thought it was going to be one off, but now we have designer collaborations annually, sometimes twice a year.

"I remember Karl wanted a programme. So I gave him some suggestions during lunch, and he liked and followed them. I asked him to design underwear as well but he said no. But he did come up with lingerie-detailing. He's very nice to work with," she shares.

The limited edition designer collections are sold at only select stores worldwide. The price point is higher as the clothes are more expensive to make and exclusive, and this makes them all the more special.

"Usually, we have a framework, an over-riding theme for the guest designers, depending on the season. For example, (Martin) Magiela was very avant garde and quite different, Versace very glamorous, and Marni was a lot about prints. (Robert) Cavalli wanted a very expensive fabric, but we managed come up with an equivalent that worked just as well at much lower cost."

On Madonna, van den Bosch says the singer changed her mind a lot during production but was very happy with results.

"We met her in Chicago and she showed us some of her wardrobe favourites. She liked black a lot, but it was spring so we had to have some colours. She said clearly 'no flowers' and loved sunglasses. Her key pieces were dresses, classic suits, leather, shapely outfits and very feminine clothes," adds van den Bosch.

Journalists were given a sneak peak of the coming season's accessories by Anna Dello Russo that debuts on Oct 4. The ornamental and flamboyant 50-piece collection features gold details infused with a Mediterranean flair. We tried on some of the pieces and felt the loss as it's truly a pity that the gorgeous collection won't be available in Malaysia.

"It'd be good to look beyond European borders and one day work with an Asian designer; there's a lot of talent in China and Japan, for instance," she says.

For up-to-the-minute fashion feedback, H&M holds customer surveys, dialogues sessions and invites focus groups. Fashion today is global so it doesn't matter where you're stationed to make your market analysis, says Johansson.

Sustainable choices

In the White Room, designers work intensively with new materials and colours, and develop the results of their research further. It is also where the brand looks into how organic cotton can be better and more fully employed in its many ranges, and since 2010, special collections using sustainable materials have been produced.

Its first Conscious Collection arrived in stores in spring last year.

The company has a shared vision for sustainability and formulated seven commitments called H&M Conscious Actions to ensure everyone follows the same direction. This encompasses, among others, adopting ethical practices, improving working conditions and using natural resources responsibly.

Other corporate social responsibility projects include Fashion Against AIDS, a collaboration with international charity WaterAid since 2002 and partnership with Unicef since 2004 in support of several Unicef projects throughout the years.

Design-driven fashion, quality workmanship and materials at cost-effective prices, plus eco-conscious goals to match; What's there not to like?

If anything, it could be that pockets are not deep enough to tide over the buying frenzy when H&M opens its doors in Kuala Lumpur and later, Setia City Mall in Shah Alam, Selangor.

> H&M at Lot 10, Bukit Bintang, KL opens this Saturday at 11am. The first lucky fashionista in line will get a RM500 gift card, the second to the fifth will get RM200 gift cards and next 300 lucky shoppers, a RM50 gift card each.

Related Stories:
International fashion retailer at your doorstep
Still a 'family business' at heart

Kredit: www.thestar.com.my

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