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The Star Online: Lifestyle: Arts & Fashion

Posted: 16 Nov 2011 10:33 PM PST

Top Asian couturiers show off their designs in Macau.

IN THE heart of Macau sits an integrated entertainment resort by the name of City of Dreams. Opened in June 2009, it touts itself as a premiere leisure destination, combining a diverse array of accommodation (such as Crown Towers, Hard Rock Hotel and Grand Hyatt Macau), international dining, designer brands and a contemporary casino.

To further boost its high-end status, it held a three-day event featuring Asian haute couture last month.

"As an initiative to support the first Macau Shopping Festival and endorsed by the Macau Government Tourist Office, Glam Slam 2011 At City of Dreams provides an international platform for Asian designers to showcase their work, while helping to establish Macau as a regional fashion epicentre," says Lawrence Ho, co-chairman and chief executive officer of Melco Crown Entertainment Limited.

The opening fete on Oct 13 saw the participation of regional couturiers such as Barney Cheng (from Hong Kong), Francis Cheong (Singapore), Jasper Huang (Taiwan), Qi Gang (China), Vivian Luk (Hong Kong), William Tang (Hong Kong) and our very own Lee Khoon Hooi (Malaysia). Each designer presented eight pieces. Jewellery brand Butani also showcased its haute couture pieces.

Top Japanese model Ai Tominaga – who is City Of Dreams ambassador – graced the event. Wearing a Barney Cheng gown, the clotheshorse was a towering presence.

Some of the highlights from the show include:

Barney Cheng

Hong Kong actress Vivian Chow, in a glittering dress, opened the show for Barney Cheng. Her appearance drew surprised gasps and a round of applause from the audience. As for Cheng's designs, they comprise Grecian-styled, flowing gowns with the requisite amount of dazzling sequins and beads. The colours were bold and vibrant. "These shades represent Macau for me," said Cheng at a press conference after the opening showcase. "I normally use more earthy tones."

Calling his designs "extravagant simplicity", Cheng explained that everything was done by hand as far as his collection was concerned. He looks at women as if "they haven't finished putting on their make-up". "I imagine applying layer upon layer on the female form until the look is finished."

Known for his flawless tailoring and exquisitely executed designs, Cheng studied textile at the Royal Academy of Arts in London and costume at Parson's School of Design in Paris. His label is now available in the United States, Britain, Japan, Hong Kong and the Middle East.

Francis Cheong

Opening with a strong statement – a gold dress which glittered and shone – Cheong followed with tiered, sleeveless gowns, mermaid-like silhouettes and dresses with ruffled sleeves. Peek-a-boo cuts with dangling ornaments were some of the details on display. Interjecting feminine grace with a dash of flamboyance, his haute couture designs glorify feminine curves while maintaing sleek a silhouette.

One of the best known designers in the Lion City, Cheong dresses stars such as Zoe Tay and Fann Wong. He was the youngest couturier to win the Singapore Designer Contest in 1981. Since then, Cheong has been wowing fashionistas with his arresting approach to couture: a combination of immaculate French embroidery and extravagant Italian fabrics.

When asked which of the partipating designers he liked the most, Cheong was diplomatic in his reply. "Everyone is good, you can't compare one designerwith another. Everyone has the 'wow' factor."

Jasper Huang

Huang used colourblocking – one of the most popular trends of the moment – to great effect in his collection. Well-known for his seamless fusion of art-deco chinoiserie and sharp tailoring, the Taiwanese designer was also not afraid of drama. This was evident in his usage of over-the-top accessories such as elaborate feathers and ombre fur stoles.

Vivian Luk

Creating headline-making frocks is all in a day's work for Luk. The Parson's graduate spent three years in New York to oversee Vera Wang in New York, before relocating to Hong Kong to start her own evening wear and bridal business.

Recognised for her intricate curves and organic folds, Luk's inspiration for her collection was the forever-young Peter Pan. Hence, she used key words such as "angelic, magical and playful" to describe her collection of whimsical, red carpet ready dresses.

Qi Gang

The Beijing-based designer is heavily influenced by avant-garde ideas and believes that true fashion lies in extremes. He launched his own label Sculpture Element Collection (SEC) in 2007 and rebranded it as SCFASHION in 2010. The winner of the "China Fashion Design Top Award" has dressed many of the nation's A-list actresses such as Fan Bingbing and Dong Xuan at international film festivals.

His collection had French overtones drawn from palaces and gardens which the designer visited in Paris. Qi used bold colours and unconventional draping techniques throughout. He accented the clothes with an assortment of ornaments, from lace or feathers to Swarovski stones, while the colour palette was dazzlingly bright.

As he can always be counted on to deliver surprises, two male models appeared in Qi's dresses on the runway to provide the drama.

William Tang

In Hong Kong, he has become a major fashion figure through his retail labels W by William Tang and William Tang. His designs and shows never fail to challenge conventions, earning him the reputation of "bad boy of fashion".

"My personal philosophy is to draw from history and culture for inspiration, to create unique expressions," explained Tang. Red was a pivotal colour for Tang, and his rebellion showed in the bat wing-like sleeves and bold flower petal motifs in his collection.

Lee Khoon Hooi

Since 1999, Lee Khoon Hooi has been producing avant-garde yet romantic women's clothing via his label, Khoon Hooi. The designer – a graduate from the Malaysian Institute of Art – is the winner of numerous fashion and design awards, and is considered one of the frontrunners in the Malaysian fashion scene.

For his Spring/Summer 2012 collection, Lee was inspired by the blossoming of a flower. His main fabrics used were silk and laser printed lace, and he was also generous in the use of embroidery on his dresses.

There were soft, flowy drapes. "It's like a woman playfully draping a piece of fabric around herself," explained Lee, who describes Macau as a platform for him to reach new customers in China.

Bright colours popped in his mind. Shades of fushcia pink were infused into this feminine yet edgy collection, with just enough detailed embellishment to catch one's eye and keep the essence of his signature clean lines.

Lee's label is now sold in Singapore, Indonesia, the Middle East and of course, Malaysia. He will next participate in the Asia Magic Gala on Nov 24 during Malaysia International Fashion Week.

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Max Azria knows what women want

Posted: 16 Nov 2011 04:19 PM PST

Contemporary French brand BCBGMAXAZRIA stresses on simplicity for its latest collection.

FASHION is more than just clothes; it's about attitude, flair and that certain je ne sais quoi.

No one knows this better than couturier Max Azria, who has spent the past 22 years designing clothes that allow women to not just look great, but also have oodles of attitude. Helming three different fashion runway brands, BCBGMAXAZRIA, Max Azria and Hervé Léger, Azria is a master at marrying fashion sensibilities with what the marketplace wants.

His eponymous label BCBGMAXAZRIA, launched in 1989, is a perfect reflection of this spirit, providing effortlessly chic looks for the contemporary woman. The brand name itself is inspired by a marriage of fashion and attitude: the letters "BCBG" stand for the French words bon chic, bon genre, which translate as "good style, good attitude".

In an exclusive e-mail interview with Star2, the 62-year-old French designer, currently based in Los Angeles, shares that he always has a specific type of woman in mind when he designs for the label.

"The BCBGMAXAZRIA woman lives a dynamic life. She juggles work, family and travel, and still takes the time to make sure she looks and feels great. Our label has always focused on making women look and feel beautiful. Each of our collections offer a combination of quality, luxury and accessibility," says Azria.

He points out, however, that the label's outlook is a continuously changing one.

"Our woman has evolved a lot since we first started. She has become more well versed in fashion, and open to taking risks with her style. This has allowed us to grow as a brand and become more versatile with our products."

Many world-famous women are regularly seen in BCBGMAXAZRIA designs including Sharon Stone, Fergie, January Jones and Dakota Fanning.

Little wonder, as Azria's muse just happens to be a strong, beautiful woman as well – his wife Lubov Azria, who joined BCBGMAXAZRIA as creative director in 1991.

"I take inspiration from many different things for my designs, such as my travels, film and art. But particularly my wife Lubov, who continues to inspire the look of each of our collections," says Azria.

BCBGMAXAZRIA Runway's Fall 2011 collection is no different when it comes to fashionable wearability. Azria says the collection is all about simplicity.

This simplicity is apparent in the pure lines and tonal palette of the collection, enlivened by flashes of bright colours and playful details.

"Our focus was on easy, effortless silhouettes that let women express themselves. We wanted to offer long, flowing dresses that can go anywhere and make a woman feel amazing. Luxe neutrals and vibrant colours (further) create looks that are flattering and chic," he explains.

The collection boasts a fresh sensibility, featuring interesting silhouettes that are both eye-catching yet fuss-free. The belted drop waist is a common feature, showing up in dresses and coats alike to play on elongated proportions.

"Our Fall designs complement our customers' fast-paced lifestyle with clothes that are easy and wearable," says Azria.

Silhouettes are kept loose and flowy, with unstructured and deconstructed pieces showing up either on their own or contrasted with crisp skirts.

Even coats are free-flowing rather than rigid, thanks to feminine fabrics and relaxed fits. Dresses are both comfotable and feminine, with elements such as tiers and layers adding visual interest.

The Fall 2011 collection keeps predominantly to dark, autumnal colours, such as blacks, greys and browns. Occasional splashes of vivid reds and blues, however, give an unexpected touch of adventure. Providing a surprising contrast, on the other hand, are creations in bold shades such as chilli red or electric blue, with black or neutral accents.

"It's not enough to just design beautiful pieces," says Azria. "It's helpful to understand what our customers are looking for. This combination results in clothes that women want to wear."

Prices range from RM699 to RM3,299. BCBGMAXAZRIA stores are located at Pavilion Kuala Lumpur and The Gardens, Kuala Lumpur.

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Kredit: www.thestar.com.my

Khamis, 17 November 2011