The Star Online: Lifestyle: Arts & Fashion
The Star Online: Lifestyle: Arts & Fashion |
| Posted: 03 Nov 2011 02:41 AM PDT With its range of wearable, fashion-forward outfits, Raoul is set for global domination. FRESH after its menswear Fall/Winter 2011 presentation at Singapore's inaugural Men's Fashion Week early this year, cyber chatter was effusive of praise for Raoul's stylistic leanings. When the brand's womenswear had their turn at the Audi Fashion Festival recently, it was no longer mere talk. There was no doubt now – as I watched outfit after outfit march down the runway, wishing they all belonged in my wardrobe – that the nine-year-old Singaporean label meant business when it came to the fashion stakes. For the uninitiated who think that this brand is still synonymous with their corporate friendly shirts, we say it's time to get with the programme. The decidedly fashion-forward switch of its seasonal collections since 2010 hasn't gone unnoticed by fashion observers. The creative directors of the label, husband and wife team Douglas and Odile Benjamin attribute it to serendipity. "Two years ago in Milan, we met a prominent brand consultant who saw something in Raoul. She and her team came in, helped us change some things around, and the following collection that we showed in Paris in February last year was a watershed moment," remarks Douglas. The catalyst in mention, of course, was Joy Yaffe, a Milan-based fashion talent scout who is most known for launching the careers of designers Sophia Kokosalaki, Antonio Berardi and Veronique Branquinho. This collaboration with international talents continues to lend credence to Raoul's determination to be a truly international label, as shown in their Fall/Winter 2011 campaign. Famed New York-based photographer Marcelo Krasilcic and creative director Haidee Findlay-Levin descended on Sao Paolo with their team, where Brazil's iconic architecture provided a synergistic backdrop to the collection's modernist and minimalist aesthetics. Global domination notwithstanding, Douglas believes that their strength still lies in their roots. "Whenever I speak or introduce the brand, we make it clear that being Asian is in our DNA, and in Europe, people are always amazed when we tell them we're Singaporean,' he smiles. "The beauty of it is that the identity of being Singaporean is still being defined and we can help shape it and that is very appealing. As you know, Asians tend to attach a stigma to being a local brand, but along with other labels like Malaysia's Farah Khan and Singapore's alldressedup, we are selling internationally, doing an amazing job and helping pave the way in changing the perception that Asian brands can be of exceptional quality at the right prices." And Raoul's retail efforts should be rightly applauded, with 70 points-of-sales globally, ranging from its regional neighbours of Indonesia, Malaysia and the Philippines to Australia, Italy, Russia and prestigious retailers like Harrods in London as well as Saks and Henri Bendel in the United States. "We are trying to open stores in all the capital cities of the world but we are always looking at maintaining a balance because there is a sense of exclusivity to Raoul, we don't want to be overly accessible and flood the market with stores because we are aiming to be more than a flash in the pan," explains Douglas. And it is a strategy we cannot fault, after Raoul scored capsule collections with the highly popular online shopping site shopbop.com as well as two collaborative collections for Fall/Winter 2010 and Spring/Summer 2011 with talented American knitwear designer Tom Scott. "Tom was amazing, I wish we could import him to Singapore," laughs Douglas. "He really added value to Raoul in helping us create a product, knitwear, that we didn't do well or at all. He gave us cachet as he is really well known in the United States and in turn he truly enjoyed working with us." Lest you think that Raoul's great leap into serious style is only driven by external talents, we would have you know that Douglas and Odile (who are F J Benjamin's CEO and divisional director respectively) are the real powerhouses behind its creative direction. "We really do a lot of research!" smiles Odile, who primarily heads the ladies' collections. "There is no real pattern in inspiration but we do a lot of vintage research and shopping. Sometimes when we buy a piece, it's not only for the design, but it could be the technique, or the hardware, like an interesting closure." It sure looks like all their homework paid off, as both the men and women's Fall/Winter 2011 collections are succinct expressions of the 70s swagger of Pan Am flight attendants. Structured and simplified, the clean lines allow the precise tailoring to come through, and monotony is driven away by clever colour blocking, sharp textural contrasts in fabric, and a certain detached cool that the global cult of Phoebe Philo worship at. It's hardly surprising that the only criticism levelled at Raoul's new direction has been its homage to Celine, given that Douglas and Odile are frequent front-row attendees at the French house's showings. Yet one could argue that Philo's success at the helm of Celine is due to the fact that she makes clothes that people actually want to wear. And as I eye a floaty chiffon gown in a soft tied neckline, an amazing half-tweed wool coat, almost all the bags, plus quite a few pairs of to-die-for shoes, Raoul's similarity in making gorgeous, wearable clothes is only plain old common, if not fashion, sense.
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| What makes Anya Hindmarch's bags sell Posted: 02 Nov 2011 06:57 PM PDT Anya Hindmarch reveals the secrets behind her best-selling bags. DESPITE the incredible success that she enjoys, Anya Hindmarch certainly knows not to take herself too seriously. "I can't stand people who take themselves too seriously. I hope that through my work, I have demonstrated a sense of perspective. I don't like to linger on nice things but I hope I'm never seen as unkind or unfair," she said in response to a question on what she thought would be said about her if there was a testimonial being held in her honour today. In fact, Hindmarch has no qualms about being self-deprecating about her origins. She hails from Essex, Britain, an area more known for its contribution to British humour, such as the Essex Girl jokes − the English equivalent of dumb blonde jokes. Though one must note, Hindmarch is not from the working class neighbourhood of Essex which gave rise to that off-colour "humour". "I've got those ribald jokes out of the way. I can say I have the last laugh with the bags," joked Hindmarch. She was referring to one of the stereotypes of Essex Girls dancing around their handbags. It may be a derogatory joke but not only is Hindmarch spoilt for choice when it comes to bags, they are actually her bags. And these are bags that A-list celebrities and socialites all over the world are pictured carrying. The 43-year-old started her business at 19 and has today graduated to more than 54 stores worldwide. She was in Kuala Lumpur late last month to open a new flagship store at Suria KLCC. She spent about an hour with Star2 sharing some of her musings, which included her thoughts on the many awards bestowed upon her and the brand. "Of course it's always exciting to win awards. My first, the Accessories Designer of the Year at the British Fashion Awards in 2001 was a real big deal to me. It's much like your first boyfriend, you remember it. I'm doing something I love to do and it wins awards, how great is that," said Hindmarch interspersed with her fetching laughter. She's not just loved by women (and some men) all over the world for the "gift" of her bags but also courted by other fashion companies. Hindmarch collaborated with American budget store Target in 2008 on a limited edition handbag collection that was sold out within minutes of going on sale. In April last year, together with British heritage brand Barbour, she fashioned an outerwear collection comprising clothes. The range artfully features the trademark pockets found on her bags. Obviously, Hindmarch has come a long way from importing duffel bags from Italy after finishing school. As Hindmarch noted, one needs to dream big. "You need a greater visualisation of where you're going to be. If you do not see where you are going, how do you get there? I've always wanted to have shops and my own products, I just didn't have any idea how many shops. I was thinking New York one day and it materialised." Hindmarch clarified that once a goal is reached, you need fresh visualisation every two or three years. One more thing to tick off on her list is a doctorate. Hindmarch is now an honorary Doctor of Arts, courtesy of the Anglia Ruskin University in Chelmsford. That will go well with her Member of the Order of the British Empire appointment in 2009. "Now I can stick it to my children who are real brainy that 'Hey I am more qualified than you'. Education was never my strong point and my turning point was actually getting trained by a leather master craftsman in Italy. But it was great seeing so many fresh and eager faces who will be out there following their dreams like I did," said Hindmarch of the conferment day. Hindmarch could easily be a role model for dreams coming true. When it came to the world of fashion, she was in turn inspired by pioneers like Coco Chanel and Cristóbal Balanciaga. But it's not just fashion icons that inspire her. "Fashion for me is both art and science. These people were originals. But I'm inspired by architecture, art and travel. Travel, for instance, feeds your brain." She cited American visionary mid-century architect John Lautner as an inspiration. Hindmarch has also worked with artists and museums; she is a trustee of the Royal Academy of Arts. One artist she took on was graffiti artist Ben Eine, who worked with her on a tote collection last year. British Prime Minister David Cameron sought her advice on what to give the Obamas on his first official visit to the United States in July last year. Her answer? A print from Eine. "I've always been a fan of graphics and love the huge letters that Ben Eine paints." Since then, Eine has garnered international attention; so much so that his back collection is much in demand. While Hindmarch is now probably blase at seeing big names sporting her designs, it was one of her first clients that made her go "OMG!" It was the late Princess Diana. "Many of her bags were from us. She liked the Maud clutch, we called it her 'cleavage bag'. She used the bag often to cover up her cleavage at public appearances." Hindmarch's "trick" in fashioning must-have bags is to imagine what she wants. She said she has no muses, not even herself. "I'm my own harshest critic. I'm very fussy. Do the bags feel great? Does it work? We have a subconscious relationship to a product. I'm a woman and I know what I want. So it starts with what I want." As she is quite methodical, all of her bags have compartments and pouches for things such as notes of different currencies, make-up items, receipts and bills. Of course, she only uses her own bags and has three or four on the ready, depending on the function and the colour of her outfit. "Sometimes I go back to one of my favourite bags. There's one bag I recently went back to that I first used 18 years ago." This mother of five was reluctant to name her favourite bags. "It's like asking me to choose between children." Nevertheless, she rattled off names such as the Carker, the Belvedere, the Lacing and the Nevis. And is Tia, 20, the only girl among her five children, as taken with bags as she is? "She's mad about surfing now which is so far from bags. So my daughter tries hard to pretend not to be interested but you can see her excitement when talk turns to bags." Husband James Seymour is the company's financial director who was a widower with three kids when they first met. The couple have two children together. While much of this information on Hindmarch is out there on the big information sieve called the Internet, she says she is still very much a private person. Still, would she let us take a peek inside her bag? "A Leica camera because I love taking pictures. A mobile phone. Lip salve. Night cream. Sore throat lozenges. I don't carry lots of stuff. My other bag would have a rotating pencil, for sketching and a two-way diary, one side for sketches and the other for my schedule," listed Hindmarch with a laugh. And husband Seymour would be carrying a Dylan Jones bag, the only bag for men designed by Anya Hindmarch. It was fashioned in collaboration with the editor of British GQ whose name it carries. "Inside the bag, I embossed 'Dylan who? Love your wife.' Inside his bag would be fountain pens, several pairs of sunglasses. Stacks of bills. An unsmoked cigar and an iPad." As we concluded the interview, I asked Hindmarch if anyone ever remarked on her resemblance to Harry Potter author J.K. Rowling? "That's really interesting, someone said the same thing last night. I'm very flattered, of course, to be compared to her. And my children would be thrilled. They are huge fans of hers." Related Story: |
| Posted: 02 Nov 2011 05:14 PM PDT THE fine detailing of menswear inspired Anya Hindmarch's latest collection. Or to be more specific, how menswear is put together and the feel and movement of the fabric. This led to the pulling apart and simplification of construction, the creation of clean lines with attention to detail being most important. It continues the confident hand and steadfast conviction of the previous collection's luxurious functionality. This time, it is upped a notch to include exquisite craftsmanship and detailing. According to Hindmarch, her latest collection is all about soft luxurious leather bags and oversized detailing like iconic tassels and zips, and lots of fringing. "It's also about comfort and ease of use. When it comes to colour, there are lots of lovely muted ones like the greys. Key pieces include the Huxley with sugary tassels, the Carker hand-held bags and the Raw Nevis," said Hindmarch, who was in Kuala Lumpur for the launch of the new Suria KLCC store. The Huxley embodies the spirit of the collection where simple lines are embellished with intricate detailing, handstitching, oversized maxi zip and shagreen tassel. Tote bags come in two sizes complemented by an oversized clutch with chain handle. There is an array of colours and skins on offer including nude with contrasting black shagreen tassel, khaki mock croc stamped calf with tone-on-tone tassel and natural python. Then there's the Alban with its strong and graphic style. Details include an enamel twist lock, pale gold hardware with both a shoulder and a cross body strap. The shoulder style bag is accompanied by a modern satchel and elegant tote. There is the nude with black contrast and khaki high shine with khaki brushed calf. The Nevis is a classic Anya style previously produced in canvas and nylon. It's now reworked into a luxe leather tote, finished with raw laser-cut edges creating a strong silhouette. Handstitching on the handles is finished with a subtle pale gold Anya bow. Orange is now added alongside chic nude and classic black. The Maxi Zip is carried over from the previous season. Alongside the satchel, there is now an oversized tote with two maxi zips and a shoulder bag. They come in the season's colours of orange, black and slate grey in both battered and high shine leather. All the Anya stamps like signature tassels, subtle pale gold hardware and the nastro strap are there. The bags can be worn either on the shoulder or slung across the body. The tote and shoulder styles are slouchy, soft and spacious. To celebrate the new Suria KLCC store, Hindmarch has created a limited edition version of the iconic Belvedere tote. "The Belvedere is one of my favourites and I added some bling to it," explained Hindmarch. "It's actually a suede bag, and we put leather gold mirror strips on it. So it has the softness of suede but has more durability because of the leather. And I just love metallic gold when it becomes older, there is this quality about it." The butter calf leather handles are complemented by understated pale gold hardware and accessorised with a tan leather tag embossed with the initials of the customer. Each Belvedere Special arrives in its own unique box with a limited edition code and retails for RM6,300. n Anya Hindmarch is available at its stand-alone store in Suria KLCC and outlets in Parkson (Pavilion Kuala Lumpur and One Utama, Petaling Jaya) and Isetan (The Gardens). Prices start from RM680. Related Story: |
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