Klik GAMBAR Dibawah Untuk Lebih Info

Sumber Asal Berita :-

The Star Online: Lifestyle: Bookshelf

Posted: 12 Sep 2011 12:46 AM PDT

Executive chef Richmond Lim reveals how you can cook for a multitude without losing your cool.

FOLLOW the golden rule of 80:20 when preparing a banquet for thousands. That's 80% planning and 20% execution, explains executive chef Richmond Lim Beng Poh of his success in organising meals for thousands during government and corporate events, and even functions hosted by royal families.

"Cooking one plate is easy but delivering a thousand plates is not," says Lim, the executive chef of Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre (KLCC). "Banqueting is challenging (in the early days). Now, in the 21st century, we've technology in place (and the most advanced equipment to expedite the cooking process)."

The KLCC boasts a full fledged 3,157sqm commercial kitchen, the largest of its kind in the country. Furnished with the most advanced equipment, there is a designated space for food preparation behind every large function room.

Towards this end, manpower planning is also crucial to ensure successful food preparation. During peak periods, the centre relies on casual labour to assist the catering staff in delivering quality service on all fronts.

The centre is very proud of its highly innovative culinary infrastructure, in particular cook and chill facilities which contribute to the smooth preparation of food. Cook and chill involves the full cooking of food, followed by rapid chilling and storage at controlled temperatures. This locks in the flavours and provides more flexibility in food service.

After 12 years in the hotel industry and 16 years in banqueting, Lim, 48, was inspired to come up with a banqueting guidebook. And the result was the 260-page Stainless Steel Kitchen – A Revolutionary Banqueting Guide Book which was launched last month. Published by My Nourishment, it is believed to be the only banqueting guidebook around.

As early as a decade ago, Lim had wanted to write such a book to share innovative ways to apply the cook and chill process to banqueting challenges faced by chefs around the world.

"The time is now right as I have a strong team, and strong support and encouragement from my staff and our general manager, Datuk Peter Brokenshire," he says.

A perfectionist by nature, Lim supervised the making of the book from cover to cover. The banquet guru conceptualised the cover and snapped some of the photos which were featured in the book.

The Stainless Steel Kitchen has an initial print of 2,500 copies of which 1,000 are reserved for a Milan food show next month.

During the launch on Aug 18, about 200 guests were feted to a sumptuous cocktail dinner where they sampled dishes featured in the book. Nasi Lemak, Red Majestic Peking Duck Roulade, Caramelised Roast Duck, "Fork Flake" House-Smoked Salmon, Carved Golden Nugget and Scillian Pistachio Lamb were among the scrumptious fare served.

When we visited the KLCC kitchen for a photo shoot, Lim gave us a peek at what went on behind the scenes.

The centre has successfully catered for functions as diverse as the 6,048-delegate World Congress of Accountants 2010, the 6th World Islamic Economic Forum attended by 2,000 delegates, the 18th Figo World Congress of Gynaecology and Obstetrics with 8,294 participants from 130 countries, and the 39th Asean Ministerial Meeting that was graced by world leaders.

"In the F&B industry globally, the biggest challenge is human capital. There are not enough (good) calibre or trained people and many are leaving due to the long hours," laments Lim. "It's the same old problem everywhere! We've to change the way we work and make the most out of technology. When the market is at its peak, everybody rushes in but when the market is weak, people get retrenched. So industry players have to be more prepared."

Meet the stars

In his book, Lim introduces the "five stars" in banqueting: food safety, food quality, food and labour costs, food technology, and food applications.

"In big banquets, these five basics are important. Food safety needs to meet international HACCP (Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Point) standards." (HACCP is a management system in which food safety is addressed at every stage, from the raw material up to the point when food is served at the table.)

"When you buy a piece of meat, the choice is important. Preparation is important, too. The cooking temperature must be right and the food should not be overcooked."

Lim also stresses on food quality. "Good food must have fresh produce. At banquets we serve food that is tasty and safe for consumption. But there is also the bottom line of profits and yield management."

Food technology is widely used to enhance productivity, efficiency and consistency.

"In cooking for crowds, it's about delivering, say, 3,000 beef steaks. You need technology (to expedite the cooking process). It also boils down to revolutionary cooking methods and speed in serving the guests."

Food application is about cooking techniques such as sous-vide cooking (or vacuumed-packed and low pressure cooking) and cook and chill, as well as food science (enhancing flavours) creativity, innovation and R&D.

Lim's guidebook also discusses the four Ps: product, promotion, place and price.

Product is about quality assurance (buy something certified). "If the product is good, people (the suppliers) promote it, telling you where it's from and the price. But if it is too expensive, you can't sell. It's about sustainability," explains Lim.

Banqueting is also about the three Es.

"Chefs explore, experiment and experience," says Lim with a chuckle. "The executive chef is like the conductor of a symphony orchestra except that he is orchestrating his kitchen brigade. Sometimes it's easier for him to fire the imagination by just sketching the type of food to be served. And his chef knows the amount to order!

"In cook and chill, the beef is put into a combi oven and the temperature is synchronised with that of the vegetables and the plate, to get the right texture and taste," says Lim.

"After cooking the beef and while sending it to the guests, all the temperatures (of the vegetables and the plate) will drop except the central core temperature of the meat, which goes up."

Fine details such as food temperature and the distance of tables are also looked into.

"When you deliver a plate 30m away (in 25 seconds), the temperature of the core of the meat must be 52°C. In initial test runs, we sent the beef for microbiology tests to find out if it was safe for consumption and free of bacteria. So in a banquet for 3,000 people, we must have STT (speed, time and temperature).

"Precision planning is crucial to get 3,000 plates to the guests in a ballroom within 18 minutes."

While The Stainless Steel Kitchen may target professionals, home-makers and cooking enthusiasts will be able to glean gems from it.

"If you have a (home) party for 30 people, can you eat after all the cooking?

"No. You're too tired. But the secret to a successful party lies in good planning (and cooking ahead). So even if a guest calls and says he is on his way in a taxi, you can coolly take a shower.

"When it's time to eat, you simply heat up the dishes. And it's ready. With some dishes, you can do this, but with others, you can't. Certainly not for char kway teow!" chuckles Lim.

The Stainless Steel Kitchen, priced at RM368, is available at major bookstores.

Exotic twist from Richmond Lim's kitchen brigade

Posted: 11 Sep 2011 09:12 PM PDT

SOME dishes in Stainless Steel Kitchen – A Revolutionary Banqueting Guide Book were created after a brainstorming session with a passionate and dynamic culinary team, says executive chef Richmond Lim Beng Poh of Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre of his kitchen brigade. "Guests gave excellent feedback and some of the dishes are very popular."

Here are three recipes from the Stainless Steel Kitchen.

Percik Grilled Chicken On Sugarcane

(Ayam Percik Tebu Salak)
Serves 6

Ayam Percik has since days long past been a Malaysian-Indonesian favourite, often served with hot, freshly steamed rice. This recipe uses whole chicken legs which are marinated in a savoury blend of spices. The meat is further enhanced in taste and aroma with an additional helping of sauce, thus ensuring a wealth of flavour in every bite.

6 chicken legs, bone-in (about 322g per piece)

6 lengths black sugar cane, each measuring 20cm long

Marinade

100g purple shallots, minced

30g smoked garlic, minced

30g fresh young ginger, minced

100g wild lemongrass, minced

15g fresh young galangal, minced

10g turmeric powder

5g cumin powder

15g fresh young turmeric

60g brown sugar

30g kosher salt (coarse, flaky salt made without additives)

100ml corn oil

Percik sauce

100ml corn oil

50g purple shallots, minced

30g smoked garlic, minced

30g fresh young ginger, minced

50g wild lemongrass, minced

10g fresh young galangal, minced

20g de-seed dried chilli, minced

30g fresh young turmeric

10g turmeric powder

15g cumin powder

5g fresh turmeric leaf

50ml water

100ml fresh-pressed coconut milk

20g kosher salt

100g brown sugar

Garnishes

3g fresh turmeric leaves, sliced and fried

3g red cherry tomatoes, skinned

Combine all the marinade ingredients and marinate the whole chicken legs. Place the chicken into a vacuum bag; seal and marinate overnight in the chiller. When done, remove the chicken from the bag. Cut two slits lengthwise (taking care not to cut through to the two ends of the sugarcane) in the middle section of each length of sugarcane. Clamp a piece of chicken leg in between the slits of the sugarcane, tying each end securely with butcher string if necessary.

To cook the chicken the traditional way, place the chicken pieces on a satay grill and grill over burning charcoal, turning the chicken meat as needed until the meat is cooked through and lightly and evenly caramelised. Remove and serve.

Another option is to set the combi oven at 190°C, with humidity at 30% and core temperature at 74°C. Preheat the oven and place the chicken legs in to bake until the set core temperature is reached. Remove and serve.

Percik sauce

Heat the oil in a pot. Add in the shallots, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, galangal, dried chilli, turmeric, turmeric powder, cumin powder and turmeric leaf. Sauté by swirling the ingredients evenly over medium heat until aromatic. Add in water and continue stirring until the mixture is well combined.

After several minutes, slowly pour in the coconut milk. Season with salt and brown sugar. Bring the heat down to low; stir the sauce and let it simmer until thickened. Use the sauce to glaze the chicken before serving.

Enhance the flavour of this dish with the garnishes, accompanied by the percik sauce. It can be served with fragrant steamed white rice.

Carved Golden Nugget

Serves 10

Juicy slices of grain-fed Wagyu beef rump are given an exotic twist paired with a wild mushroom fricassee that is intense with the flavours of a variety of fresh mushrooms.

1.8kg Australian Wagyu beef rump (super premium beef with generous marbling)

10g black peppercorns, crushed

10ml virgin olive oil

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

2 sprigs fresh thyme

puree of roasted garlic confit

pinch of Maldon sea salt flakes, hand-crushed (a brand of pure and flaky sea salt)

Puree of roasted garlic confit

100g garlic

200ml extra virgin olive oil

2 sprigs fresh rosemary

2 sprigs fresh thyme

pinch of freshly milled black pepper

pinch of kosher salt

Fricassee of wild mushrooms

50g black truffles

50g ceps (porcini)

50g chanterelles

50g morels

40ml herb oil

1 tbsp purple shallots, chopped

1 tbsp garlic, chopped

20g unsalted butter

black truffle salt

black peppercorns, crushed

Garnish

fresh thyme

Trim and clean the beef rump. Rub the rump with the crushed peppercorns and place in a vacuum bag. Mix in the olive oil, fresh rosemary and thyme together with the roasted garlic confit. Seal the vacuum bag and leave to marinate in the chiller.

After that, steam on Low Temperature Steam Cycle at 65°C in combi oven until the meat reaches a core temperature of 38°C. Allow to rest.

Blast-chill until core temperature meets at 4°C or below.

Remove the beef rump from the vacuum bag and sear in a hot pan until evenly brown.

Transfer to a wire rack and place in the preheated combi oven to roast at a temperature of 140°C, with humidity at 50% until meat reaches a core temperature of 46°C. Remove the roast from the oven and allow to rest until core temperature gradually reaches 52°C.

Carve the roast into slices, sprinkle with salt and serve with fricassee of wild mushrooms, topped with appropriate garnishes.

Puree of roasted garlic confit

Fry black peppercorns over dry heat until fragrant. Set aside. Next, bake whole garlic in combi oven at 160°C until browned. Leave to cool. When cooled, cut the garlic into half; remove and discard the bitter core from the garlic.

Pour the olive oil into a gastronorm pan or appropriate container. Add the fresh rosemary, thyme, fragrant black peppercorns, salt and the roasted garlic to the oil. Turn the heat up to a temperature of 80°C. Let the herbs and spices infuse for a few hours until oil is aromatic. Strain and keep the herb oil aside (some may be used for the fricasee of wild mushrooms). Blend the garlic until it becomes a smooth puree. Season with salt and pepper. This is the puree of roasted garlic confit.

Fricassee of wild mushrooms

Clean and rinse mushrooms with plenty of water. Place each type of mushroom and some herb oil in separate mixing bowls and toss each separately, allowing the mushrooms to absorb the oil flavour.

Next, heat pan over moderate heat and sauté each variety of the mushrooms separately with a little of the shallot and garlic until the mushrooms turn soft, then add some butter and season with black truffle salt and crushed peppercorns. Set aside.

Once the above has been completed, combine all four types of mushrooms together and set aside.

Roasted Black Diamond Cod

Serves 10

Cod fillets make a nutritious treat that is high in protein and low in calories.

Moist and subtle in flavour, these crispy-skinned cod fillets are coated with sevruga caviar and served on celeriac-potato puree with a drizzle of aromatic citrus green tea oil.

1.8kg Atlantic cod fish fillet

20ml virgin olive oil

1 sprig fresh dill

200g fresh sevruga caviar

pinch of lime powder seasoning

pinch of fine sea salt

white peppercorns, ground

Citrus Green Tea Oil

20ml extra virgin olive oil

30g green tea

80g kumquat

3 lemons, zest only

3 oranges, zest only

2 sprigs fresh dill

pinch of white peppercorns, crushed

Celeriac Potato Puree

600g celeriac

200g Idaho potatoes

40g unsalted butter

20g white pearl onions

80ml fresh milk

40ml cooking cream

kosher salt

Portion the Atlantic cod fish fillet. Marinate with lime powder seasoning, salt and ground pepper. Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and pan fry the cod fish fillet, skin side down, over moderate heat until the skin turns crispy and golden brown. Lift the pieces of fish and arrange on a roasting grid. Set and preheat the combi oven to 140°C, with humidity at 50% and bake the fillets until a core temperature of 58°C is reached. Top the cod fish fillets with fresh dill and sevruga caviar to give a spark of aroma after baking. Serve immediately.

Citrus green tea oil

Dry heat the crushed white peppercorns on a hot pan for a few minutes to draw out the aroma. In a gastronorm tray or appropriate container, mix the olive oil, peppercorns, green tea, kumquats, as well as lemon and orange zests together.

Place tray in a combi oven preheated to a temperature of 70°C and let it infuse for a few hours. Remove container from the oven when the process is done. Add the fresh dill and set aside to cool. Strain through using a fine strainer before use and keep at room temperature.

Celeriac potato puree

Trim and rinse the celeriac and potatoes and dice into large pieces. Heat the butter in a saucepan over moderate heat. Add celeraic, potatoes and onions to the pan and cook together. Pour in the milk to cook till the vegetables are soft; add the cream. Transfer the contents of the pan into a blender and blend to a smooth puree. Season to taste. To give it a fine texture, adjust by adding fresh milk or cream.

Recipes courtesy of My Nourishment (the publisher) with food photography by Shafiq from Isimplez.

Kredit: www.thestar.com.my

Isnin, 12 September 2011