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The Star Online: Lifestyle: Arts & Fashion

Posted: 08 Jun 2011 08:07 PM PDT

THE name Swarovski certainly needs no introduction. Since its entry into the world of fashion, it has revolutionised design aesthetics, and brought glitter to finishings and accessories. The recent showing of the Wings of Fantasy Fall/Winter 2011/12 collection in Singapore took the shimmering crystals to a new dimension.

From chunky multi-coloured necklaces to equally chunky bracelets, they were all head-turners. There were also stunning drop down necklaces with matching earrings and dazzling rings. One standout piece was a plunging V-neck dress with pointed shoulders in silver crystals with the lower-half adorned with multi-coloured crystals.

Perhaps, it was an optical illusion but the shimmering bits looked like they were all carefully stitched on individually rather than just ironed on.

The final piece was a floor-length dress in golden crystals that was probably quite heavy yet afforded fluid motion. The model who wore the outfit worked it effortlessly despite the weight and definitely deserved the enthusiastic applause.

Many of the pieces on display looked ornamental but didn't come off as tacky. Delicate simple pieces were cleverly interspersed with heavier elaborate ones.

Swarovski certainly picked the right clothes for the model, too. Based on Prabal Gurung's Spring/Summer collection 2011, it appeared like they had collaborated on the pieces together (although that was not the case). One can understand why Prabal is the designer of choice for many celebrities and First Lady Michelle Obama.

There were also nine pieces which Prabal specially fashioned in collaboration with Swarovski. The bold block colours certainly complemented the equally colourful bejewelled pieces.

According to artistic director Nathalie Colin, the muse of the season is a woman who sways between contemporary ballet and choreographed performance.

"I imagined an artiste, a star of the dancing world, in the intimate serene setting of her dressing room, as she prepares her outfit for the stage. Suddenly, she transforms herself into an enigmatic and glamorous, modern, radiant diva as she takes to the stage," he said of the collection.

This Swarovski collection is the final chapter of the Beyond Nature trilogy collection.

Related Story:
On a Missoni mission

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On a Missoni mission

Posted: 08 Jun 2011 05:01 PM PDT

After almost six decades, the family-owned Italian label still commands presence.

THE Audi Fashion Festival (AFF) 2011 held last month in Singapore was more than impressive, to say the least. The roll call of international designers and labels included Missoni and Erdem (both labels had international representation), Antonio Berardi, Ungaro with designer Giles Deacon in tow and Atelier Swarovski featuring Prabal Gurung's spring/summer collection (unfortunately, Prabal couldn't make it).

And then, there was uber famous photographer Russell James of Victoria Secret's fame, Japanese supermodel Tao Okamoto, and yesterday's singing sensation Boy George, who had his own fashion label for a while. Also known for his spinning prowess, he played DJ in the Lion City during his visit.

The festival kicked off with the Missoni Winter collection 2011. Also appearing to lend presence to the show were Angela Missoni (creative director), her brother Vittorio (marketing and distribution) and her daughter Margherita (accessories).

The family-owned fashion house has an illustrious history. The label started in 1953 when former Italian Olympic athlete Ottavio (Tai) Missoni married Rosita. They first met at the London Olympics in 1948 where Ottavio was competing (he had designed the Italian team's track suits then) while she was studying English there.

After their marriage, the couple opened a small knitwear shop in Gallarate. In 1958, they presented their first collection. With the support of legendary editor Anna Piaggi, the business flourished.

Nine years later, Missoni was the talk of town when its "braless" models showed off their assets at Pitti in Florence as a result of the the runway lights rendering the fabric transparent. Diana Vreeland, editor of Vogue (US edition), backed their designs and they made it big in the United States.

Tai eventually became more interested in other projects so Rosita was given free reign with the design direction. She then handed over design control to daughter Angela in 1998 to concentrate on her home collection.

"I started when I was young and assisted my mother at the atelier. She was always styling, looking at fashion patterns and colour. But then, my priority in life was taking care of my three children," said Angela during an interview at the AFF.

"But my mother had a strong presence, and I knew I needed to do something on my own and build my self-confidence and image. So I started out with a children's line."

She came up with the Angela Missoni line, which was mostly solids with added patterns and colours. "Mother came up to me and exclaimed that what I was doing was what she had always wanted the main line to look like. She told me that she felt tired and trapped, and wanted me to take over. She and my father would always be there for me if I ever needed advice," said Angela.

This chain of events was repeated when it came to Angela's daughter, Margherita. The 28-year-old left Italy 10 years ago and went to New York where she stayed for three years. She lived overseas for a while in Barcelona, Rome and Paris before home beckoned.

"When I was ready, mother roped me in just like my grandmother did with her. My grandmother, whom I'm very close to, always said that fashion has to be done with passion, and that was the moment passion took over," said Margherita.

While in New York, she was studying to be an actress and was also a full-time model. The tall and very pretty Margherita, who is often cited on best dressed lists for her luxe bohemian styling, was also the label's muse. Now, she handles the accessories for the label such as sunglasses and bags.

Angela's eldest brother Vittorio, is marketing director for the family business and oversees the international distribution, too. Sometimes her other brother, Luca, helps out.

Angela said they also employ modern tools such as social networking and Margherita, being the youngest in the family, obviously has the best handle on that.

"I never really tweeted before. But then, someone told me there was this person using my name and tweeting about how she loved cats. Those who know me would surely know I have a cat phobia, so obviously it was a fake. I decided to start my own account and give the public the truth," said Margherita with hearty laugh.

While the pricing for Missioni places it in the high-end market, the fashion house has been quite savvy about its collaborations. Angela said they decided to go that route to bring the Missoni aesthetics and sensibilites to other products, but in a more affordable way to the masses.

They started with San Pelligrono mineral water and it caused a sensation. Collaborations with Havaianas and Converse took place later. Angela makes it clear that they only collaborate with labels that have strong branding themselves.

Then, she gave the scoop. "We're currently working with Target in the United States (a supermarket label) for a collection. It will be a cheaper line containing our DNA with good quality fabrics and finishing. This is not intended to duplicate the standards of our atelier because then, the costs would go up and it will no longer be affordable."

These days, family-owned businesses are becoming a rarity as conglomerates swallow them up. So would it be a challenge for the Missonis to keep things within the family?

"We work well together and right now, we even have the third generation involved, so we should be able to make it work for a while longer. It's also great when your ideas are not restricted and you don't have to answer to shareholders. This means we still drive the label's direction and have the final say," said Vittorio.

Angela chipped in that working with family sometimes has its disadvantages though as it's not easy to be confrontational with another family member.

Margherita has the last word. "Well, right now we are all passionate about it. But who knows, things might change. And if you have no one to take over, then we have to decide what happens."

What is certain though, is that the iconic Missoni style which highlights zig-zag patterns, stripes, geometrics and florals in knitwear in a multitude of colours is still going strong.

The full house at the show was a clear indication of the label's popularity. Its collection was inspired by the 1990s, the film True Romance and actress Winona Ryder.

There were many long floaty dresses in iconic Missoni prints. Certainly, the gorgeous pastel hues for the winter collection was a refreshing change from the usual drab colours of the season. Canary yellow, pink cotton candy, acquamarine and stardust lilac in watercolour tones were apparent.

There were long and lean silhouettes, fluid silk velvet and featherweight crepon made into long cool maxi skirts and dresses. These were mixed with cosy men's pullovers and reversible jackets. Cardigans, and deconstructed coats and jackets and trousers in menswear cuts completed the look.

Related Story:
Shimmer fest

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Kredit: www.thestar.com.my

Khamis, 9 Jun 2011